Witchology, the history of Wicca & Witchcraftby Dr Leo Ruickbie Study and learn the history of Witchcraft, Wicca, Paganism, Magic and the Occult with our courses and resources |
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What is Witchcraft? That's what this website is here to find out. Witchology.com is the website of WICA - the Witchcraft Information Centre and Archive - founded in 1999 by Dr Leo Ruickbie as a research and education provider specialising in the areas of Witchcraft, Wicca, Paganism, Magic (Magick) and the Occult. We have been online continuously since 2000. WICA Recommended by: Presumably Buffy was born with her powers, but we are not all that lucky. Study for your diploma in witchcraft at http://www.wica.org.uk. (The Guardian, 2001) From Witchology.com Visitors: Many thanks for the wonderful newsletters and for the openmindedness you wear so well. May the spirits guide you. (Wendy, 21st November, 2004) About Leo Ruickbie's Books: Witchcraft out of the Shadows: Highly recommended. (Merry Meet, 2005) Get Involved with WICA: Want to investigate magic (Magick), review a grimoire, or write for this website? We are looking for people to join us in our work. Whatever your level of skill or experience you can help. Other Opportunities at WICA: Want to make some money? We'll help you do it now. Free Witchcraft Newsletter:
Plus special offers, secret events and a free gift! Enter your e-mail address and click the button to get the free newsletter. Spread the Word about WICA: Search Witchology: Witchcraft to Go: |
Witchology Team ProjectsIf you are already a member of the Witchology Team, then this is the page just for you, with ideas, guidelines and suggestions on how to help out at Witchology.com. Witchology Digital Photography GuideThe CompositionAs always the KISS formula rules: Keep it Simple, Stupid! So, keep your digital compositions simple! Start by shooting on the level. With experience, you can learn to shoot at an angle to add dramatic impact to the shot. Keeping your composition simple: avoid telephone poles, wires, cables, litter and street rubbish. Use the zoom lens or physically move yourself to frame these ugly distractions out of shot. Avoid taking pictures in bright sunshine. Always move your subject into the shade where they will not be screwing up their eyes against the sun or baking under its heat. The same goes for you, the hotographer. Make an effort to pose your subject, otherwise you will end up with the typical 'school photo' result with the subject staring straight into the lens and grinning like an imbecile. Candids, those shots we all love to take without actually talking or looking properly at the subject, almost always never work! Always keep your eye on what is happening at the front and the back of the frame and not just on the immediate subject. The BackgroundIf the background is 'messy', then move the subject against a plainer-looking background. If this is not possible, then use the zoom lens to frame distractions out of the shot. Note: If zoomed in, you might have to step back to keep the subject in the frame. Always, always shoot with an uncluttered background so that you look at the subject, and not at the telephone pole or McDonald’s sign that’s sticking out of the top of their heads. Choosing the Right Shooting ModeMost pictures will come out well with the camera set to 'P' or Program Mode rather than the Auto everything mode. For portraits, use the Portrait Mode (this helps make the background go a bit out of focus) or set the camera to Aperture Priority mode (called ‘A’ or ‘Av’) and manually choose a setting of about f4 or f5.6. This keeps things sharp on the subject, but reasonably fuzzy everywhere else. ActionFor all action shots, use the simple Sports Action mode, or for greater user control, Shutter Priority mode (called ‘T’ or ‘Tv’). Pick a shutter speed of about 1/500s to 'freeze' the action. When using 'fast' shutter speeds you might run out of llight. If this is the case, choose an ISO sensitivity setting of 200, 400, or higher if there is not enough light). LandscapesFor landscapes, or far-off subjects, use Landscape (or 'Mountain') mode. This locks focus into the distance and guarantees a sharper-looking distant shot. Landscape Tips
PortraitsSet the controls to Portrait Mode if the camera has one. This ensures that, although the subject of the portrait remains clear, its immediate background and foreground becomes fuzzy. The idea is to 'isolate' the subject using sharpness. For greater control over this fore- and background sharpness, set the camera to 'Aperture Priority', (usually denoted by an ‘A’ or an ‘Av’ icon). This setting is usually located on the main command dial on the top of the camera. Dial in an aperture of f5.6 (or thereabouts) using the thumbwheel. This f-stop number gives a reasonable depth of focus so that the figure that’s focused on is sharp (clear) but the background will be of focus (blurry). Portrait Tips
Close-ups (Macro)Macro, or close-up mode, is usually denoted by a small tulip icon, located on the top or the back of the camera. Press this to reset the camera's focus capabilities. Shooting close up allows us to develop a 'different vision', a world of abstract imagery. Macro Tips
Essential Camera SettingsISO - Light SensitivityGenerally, keep to a low ISO setting where possible. Although higher ISO settings are more sensitive to light they have an increased tendancy to produce spotty-looking pictures. This effect is called noise. You should only use the high ISO settings in an emergency. If it is a point-and-shoot camera, then you can have a range of ISO settings from 100 to 400. If it is a DSLR, then this range is pushed up to 1600, and beyond. In poor light, set the camera to 200 ISO (for the former category) and 400 ISO for the latter category, to keep the picture quality 'clean' and relatively free of digital noise. If the camera is left to Auto ISO, then when the light level drops off, the camera will automatically set itself to the fastest ISO setting, producing noisy results. Resolution - Image QualityUse all the resolution (pixels) available in your camera. There is no point in spending all that money and not using the camera to its full advantage. You can always reduce the size (resolution) of any picture later, at no loss of quality, but it is impossible to increase a picture's resolution once shot. If you run out of space on your memory card, either download the images to the PC or buy a larger capacity picture card. Resolution is expressed in numbers of pixels so, the larger the number, the higher the resolution. Some cameras make more sense simply by having '1M', '2M', '3M', '4M', '5M', and '6M' as a description of one-megapixel resolution, two-megapixels, and so on. Other models might have labels such as 'L' (large), 'M' (medium), and 'S' for small (check the manual for your camera). General TipsCamera Modes
Viewfinder vs. LCD Screen
Use a Tripod
Find a Theme
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